Topic:  Training Adventure Leaders for Accidents, Emergencies and Catastrophes

Date: 24th March 2018

Time: 4:00 PM

Conference Hall: B

About Steve Long:

Steve Long, Mountain Guide Chief Instructor of UIAA Technical & Mountaineering Commission, is a British Mountain Guide. He is the Technical Officer for Mountain Leader Training (UK) (Part-time since 2011). He coordinates and QA all NGB mountaineering leader and instructor courses in the UK. He’s the chairman of UIAA (International Alpine federation) Mountaineering Commission Training Panel and the lead officer for design and implementation of climbing coaching qualifications. He’s also a Member of British Mountain Guides and AMI Training Committees.

He worked as a Development Officer at Association of Mountaineering Instructors and the Technical Editor of “The Professional Mountaineer” magazine from 2013 to 2016. During the same time period, he also contributed as the AMI representative on BMC Technical Committee, the Lead climber for BMC “Coast” Holy-head episode, and Technical advisor for several legal cases in UK and Ireland. Furthermore, he was the Outdoor Education advisor for Mountaineering Activities at St. Gilgen International School from 2012-2016.

Instructing Experiences:

  • Senior Safety and rigging for SMG/Channel 4 productions “Extreme Celebrity Detox”, “Adrenaline Junkie”, “Nature’s Playgrounds”. (2004-2006)
  • Personal coaching in Snowdonia and Alps. (2004-2006)
  • AALA inspector ( 2004-2006)
  • Senior Instructor at Plas & Brenin National Centre, Mountain Training Trust
  • Produced MIA and REC booklets for P&B courses. (1992–2006)
  • Member of BMC Equipment Failure Committee.
  • Acting role of Chief Instructor for 15 months

Climbing Experience:

He commenced rock climbing since 1979, also led 7b and E5 in 2016 and winter climbing since 1982. Currently, he is leading Grade VI on ice and Grade VII on mixed climbs. He has climbed many routes in Wales and Scotland, & overseas in USA, Europe, Malaysia).


Management Experiences:

  • 1986–1992: CWM Pennant Centre
  • London Borough of Hillingdon: Chief Instructor/Head of Centre Reformed safety procedures for LEA centre
  • Successfully developed Outdoor Education Centre with minimal budget
  • Developed innovative programme of PSD courses
  • 2006-Present: Chair and Project Manager for global mountaineering qualifications QA programme


Trainer Experience:

  • Worked on various assessing/coaching workshops for MLT
  • Directed many courses at SPA/SPT level
  • Directed many MIT/MIA courses as well as individual days on dozens of courses
  • Directed MIC, ML and WGL training courses.
  • Head of P&B MIA dept for 7 years
  • Directed summer training courses for British Mountain Guides
  • Directed tutor training in UK, Portugal, Turkey, Nepal, and Jordan
  • Course director for Joint Services Alpine Training.


Publishing Experience:

  • Co-author of BMC “Alpine Essentials” booklet 2017
  • Advisor for UIAA technical Handbook “Summer Mountaineering” 2012
  • Producer of “Self-Rescue for Climbers” DVD
  • Author of Marshall Editions “The Climber’s Handbook”
  • Summit Magazine series: The Basics (2004)
  • Author of MLTUK Book 1: Hill walking; also provided most of the photos(2003-13)
  • “First Moves” (2002). 10 issue series in Climber Magazine for beginner rock climbers
  • “Technical Ecstasy” 8 issue series in OTE Magazine for intermediate rock climbers(1999)
  • “How to climb” 10 issue series in OTE Magazine for beginner rock climbers(1998)
  • Dozens of articles, illustrations, and photos for “Mountain”, “High”, “Climber”, “OTE”, “Summit”, “Trail”, “Going Places” and other publications (1982-2008)




  • 20+ Alpine Seasons. Routes include Troll Wall: Rimmon + Swedish routes “free”. Lotus Flower Tower, Walker Spur, Cecchinel/Nomine (Eckpfeiler), Dru (Bonatti, American Direct, + Winter ascent of French Direct) DroitesN.Face, Torre Trieste, Brandler/Hasse + Comici Route (TresCima), The Fish, (Marmolada South Face) El Capitan Nose + Salathe Wall and many more.
  • 1998, Key member of successful Low’s Gully descent team,
  • 2000 Ascent of Low’s Gully “The Crucible”.
  • 2001 Filmed Great Trango expedition, Pakistan. 2005, Cerro Torre (Compressor Route)


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